Yes, our gray brain cells are still on course and our mathematical ability to calculate time is intact. But we are actually writing the year 4516 - according to the Armenian calendar, of course. We were able to celebrate this in the Gegham Mountains at 2900 meters above sea level.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
Navasard - the new year begins
Navasard denotes the first month of the Armenian calendar. This starts on August 11th. Even though New Year's Eve in Armenia is now celebrated on December 31st and the calendar writes the year 2023, they still remember the old traditions and continue to count in the old calendar.
And what better way to do that than in the great outdoors, close to the Navasardian god believed to be the protector of the crops? Every year in mid-August, a friend of our colleague Vahan invites to a hike in the Gegham Mountains, which are about 30 minutes east of the capital Yerevan.
With an off-road vehicle, camping equipment and sufficient food, we set off on the 5-hour journey to the Gegham Mountains and are looking forward to our first overnight stay in a tent.
Adventure Travel to the Gegham Mountains
For us, it means departure at 6.30 a.m. After we reach Yerevan and meet other participants of our 60-strong adventurer group, we continue towards the mountains. The off-road drive of just 24 km takes 1 hour 40 minutes due to the demanding driving conditions. Well massaged and shaken, we get out of the car at the agreed location and enjoy the mountain air at the foot of the so-called "Dragon Mountain" at 2900 meters.
The mountain got its name because it looks like a dragon used its claws to give the mountain its current shape. A fitting name as we discover. Maybe we should keep quiet so as not to wake the dragon?!
We pitch our tents
After the long journey, we deserve lunch. At this altitude, the mountaineer's snack tastes twice as good - even without having walked a meter before.
We are not yet aware that our strengthening will be life-saving in relation to the following greeting. In the next hour, more and more hikers reach the agreed campsite and unpack food and drinks.
With a drink, however, vodka is the most important ingredient here, with which we, as Austrians, are warmly welcomed in the illustrious circle. Good thing we ate well!
After the watery welcome, the construction of our accommodation runs like clockwork and the construction is completed just in time. As soon as the tent city is set up, a short rain shower overtakes us. We wash it down with vodka and the sun comes out again. Typically Armenian!
We also receive a visit from a herd of cows that are kept nearby by shepherds. Curiously, they examine our tent work of art. When the shepherd comes rushing up on his horse and bareback, with the foal behind, I briefly feel more like I'm in a Winnetou film.
Contacting Civilization
When the sun shines again, we decide to go hiking with Vahan and his wife Lilit and conquer the Drachenberg. Halfway we find out that the only place far and wide with a smartphone signal is at the summit.
Whereas people used to look for telephone booths, today they eagerly climb mountains. Therefore, a small pilgrimage path to the summit is created. Because other hikers also put up with the steep ascent to get in touch with family and friends. At the summit, people make diligent phone calls before heading back into the desolation. If that isn't a goal for a successful hike!
At the summit, a wonderful view awaits us and we spot our camp.
The Armenian survival kit
Armenians can do without water, electricity and WiFi. But there is one thing that should not be missing in a true Armenian's survival kit: a decent Chorowaz. So the men prepare excellent BBQ again in the late afternoon. But this time I get scared. Vahan places 4 large meat skewers on the fire - each of us four has our own skewer.
After asking if I should prepare side dishes and vegetables, I get the clear answer: "No, we'll need the side dishes later for the Chorowaz." Curious, I inquire whether this isn't already the Chorowaz. The astonishing response: "No, that's just a small BBQ, an appetizer. The big Chorowaz is done in the evening." ;-)
Staying with an Armenian shepherd family
In order to really manage this culinary challenge, we decide to go for another round after the plentiful "starter" and enjoy the sunset.
At 2900 meters we are not alone. Many farmers pitch their tents here in summer and drive their herds of cows and sheep through the lush grass. Simply away from civilization without running water and electricity - we only know that from documentaries. In the evening the shepherds drive the sheep back from the mountains to their enclosure. They are accompanied by their dogs. When we get too close to the sheep, five dogs immediately point out our wrongdoing.
The farmer rushes to our aid and immediately invites us into his tent. An experience I don't want to miss. While Vahan and Lilit chat with the couple and their sons in Armenian, Franz and I have time to examine everything. The size of the tent is more like an apartment. But life here is very simple. There is a small power generator, a fire pit, four beds, a table and two rickety benches. The lady of the house puts the dishes on the table and puts home-made peach juice and sheep's cheese on the table, which tastes wonderful. One or the other chicken hisses through under our table and one of the sons shows us photos of his military service in Nagorno-Karabakh. The visit left a deep impression on us.
As we move on, it's already dark. Back in the camp we welcome the New Year and marvel at the clearly visible starry sky, which is now only 5 degrees. At midnight we go to the tent, because it's time to sleep.
Sunrise at 2900 meters
The night is rather restless because it is really cold and our equipment is not quite optimal. But an impressive sunrise makes you forget all that. The wonderfully fresh air, the idyll and the first flocks of sheep that are already being driven up the next mountain. Slowly the whole camp wakes up and everyone tries to warm their toes and fingers by the fire. After we have managed to organize a group photo with almost all 60 participants, there is coffee that awakens the spirits.
Now part of the group goes to Mount Azhdahak, which is at 3597 meters. The inactive volcano hides a lake in the crater. Our hikers frantically search for bread, butter and honey in the camp. This is the Armenian mountaineer's snack that is eaten at the summit. Unfortunately we can no longer participate in this 7-hour trek as the return journey to Gyumri takes too much time. It's a pity.
So we start the bumpy way back and visit the shepherd family again to buy cheese for home. With these provisions we return to Gyumri. And maybe we'll be there again next year and enjoy bread, butter and honey as summiteers! ;-)
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